Where the wild things are
Saturday, 5 August 2017
Monday, 16 March 2015
Malbogies repegging 14 and 16th March 2015
Access was from the top by abseil, but the photos are in ascent order.
The first group are pegs thought to be on Malbogies, the second are pegs thought to be on other routes.
1. The farthest left peg reached on the traverse of the first pitch. The old peg is bent over and a new one inserted.
2. Continuing the traverse. An old angle is replaced with a new one.
3. The traverse continued. The old peg is irremovable; the new one is a blade.
4. The climbing becomes vertical. This peg appeared to be recent and was left untouched.
5. To the right is a blade under an overhang. This replaced an older blade. This is probably the inverted peg of Malicious.
6. The Malbogies belay. It sports five pegs, 3 old serviceable (apparently), one new, one serviceable re-situated to a better location.
7. The peg underneath the roof - two views
8. The guide mentions two pegs above this. One was in this grassy/earthy break and was rotted through. Not replaced as there are several good friend placements.
9.The final peg replaced like for like
The non-Malbogies pegs, again starting from the ground.
1. Very low down on the right. It is not clear to me whether this is on Malicious or The Murky Way. Either way it is a very recent peg.
2. To the left of the Malbogies line and up and left from its belay there was an angle in a pocket. Irremovable. This has been doubled up, and may look a little ludicrous (2 pictures). I presume that this is the fourth peg of The Murky Way description.
3. A white groove goes up towards the overhangs. I presume this is Malicious (?). In each case the in-situ peg has now got a companion (2 pictures).
4. Above there is an overhang with a replacement peg. Again I assume it is Malicious.
Sunday, 15 March 2015
Yesterday I replaced some pegs on Malbogies. It is a very famous climb in the Avon Gorge.
This picture shows the bottom section, but the climber is not me.
Starting from the top, I abseiled down very slowly until I saw a peg, when I locked off to inspect it.
All the pegs were expected to be 'End of Life' so first I would try and get them out.
In many cases after a few taps the head of the peg fell off; that proved that it wasn't any good anyway as it might well have snapped when someone fell on it. Then I had to find a suitable place to put in a replacement peg.
However in one case there was some really good Friend placements next to it, so I did not put a new peg in there.
Sometimes the peg proved hard to remove and was clearly still in very good condition. Those I left where they were, but if there was any doubt I put another peg in nearby.
It was surprisingly hard work as quite often the pegs had to be banged in at an awkward angle.
This picture shows the bottom section, but the climber is not me.
Starting from the top, I abseiled down very slowly until I saw a peg, when I locked off to inspect it.
All the pegs were expected to be 'End of Life' so first I would try and get them out.
In many cases after a few taps the head of the peg fell off; that proved that it wasn't any good anyway as it might well have snapped when someone fell on it. Then I had to find a suitable place to put in a replacement peg.
However in one case there was some really good Friend placements next to it, so I did not put a new peg in there.
Sometimes the peg proved hard to remove and was clearly still in very good condition. Those I left where they were, but if there was any doubt I put another peg in nearby.
It was surprisingly hard work as quite often the pegs had to be banged in at an awkward angle.
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